Model Kit Review: Building a Better Revell Monogram Babylon 5 SA-23E Mitchell-Hyundyne Starfury
I recently completed building two Revell Monogram Babylon 5 Starfuries, (Ivanova’s Fighter and Sinclair’s Line Fighter, for those of you familiar with the TV show). I decided to write an article discussing the techniques I used to make them look both better and more accurate.
Sinclair’s Starfury ended up being a “customized paint job,” (since decals for it had not yet been released). I airbrushed on the yellow and black bands, along with the “02” found in the center.
Due to the non-sticking nature of the Starfury’s decals, I ended up making a color duplicate of Ivanova’s Star/Bird pattern, copying it onto a sheet of decal paper and using it instead.
While building these Starfuries, I attempted to apply some very straightforward, simple techniques to improve the models’ appearance, along with making them more accurate.
Found below are the steps I took, supplemented with photos of the actual work. Note that the steps involving individual parts were done before they were attached to the major wing/cockpit assembly.
STEP ONE: Small and Large Vanes
This was straightforward. I initially airbrushed Model Master Silver onto both sides of the vanes. When dry, I masked off the inner indentions with Microscale’s Micro Mask Solution and airbrushed M.M. Metalizer Gunmetal on. After waiting a day for the Metalizer paint to dry, I carefully removed the masking agent and lightly dusted a final coat of Gunmetal on. (See following figures):
STEP TWO: Canopy
This was also a simple step. One coat of Tamiya Acrylic Clear Red was painted by hand onto the inside of the canopy. When dry, the outer window areas were masked off with Scotch Magic Tape, carefully cut to shape with a new X-acto knife, and the outer frame was painted the base coat of the spacecraft. (See following figures):
STEP THREE: Small and Medium Thrusters
Again, the only thing done here pertains to painting. First, M.M. Steel was painted onto all thrusters. When dry, M.M. Flat Black was very carefully “dusted” onto all openings. (See following figures):
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